More Suggestions For Designing A Flowerbed

Designing A Flowerbed...My Suggestions For Long-Lasting Colour

I am asked many times for suggestions on designing a flowerbed or rather asking me for plant suggestions. Whether it be round, oval, crescent or rectangular, the question of where to start seems to remain a constant.

Where do I plant first? Do I start from the edge and work my way to the back? Or vice-versa?

Let's take a crescent flowerbed created for sun to part sun location. Please pardon the drawing, I do not profess to being a good artist...only a good gardener. That being said, I know that it is always better to visualize.

Imagine the crescent shaped flowerbed in the image below is based on one angle being up against the house and the other angle up against a fence. A crescent flowerbed can also be created to be viewed from all sides. If that is the desired look, then know that you must plant your flowers in height tiers, much like the tiers of a wedding cake, the tall plants in the center and work your way down in height layers until you reach the edge of the flowerbed. This type of design is usually completed with 3 tier heights...tall, medium and short.

Getting back to the front facing crescent...

After amending the soil, you must start planting from the back and work your way to the front. Why? If you planted from the edge of your flowerbed to the back, you could risk the chance of stepping on your new planted flowers. Also, compacting the amended soil is never a good idea. The less foot traffic on the turned soil... the better.

My suggestions for the taller back plants can be as follows:

While you could have a mid size shrub as a background anchor (the big round green spot is a garden shrub), it is not necessary to plant one in order to achieve the center back height. Height can also be achieved by planting tall growing perennials/annuals.

Let's start!

As an alternative to planting a tall shrub, you can always plant the Joe Pye Weed. It is a favorite of mine because of it's height and long bloom time. Or there is also the Sumac Tiger's Eye. This shrub turns a brilliant yellow/orange/red in the fall.

Off to the left and right hand side of the Dwarf Cranberry Shrubs, I suggesting planting another tall growing perennial, the Russian Sage. While it is categorized as a perennial, it really does grow shrub-like and offers long-lasting light blue to mauve blooms.

If the Russian Sage is not to your liking, then why not plant the ever-blooming and fragrant Foxi Pavement Rose. This shrub rose is as hardy as they come. The blooms are quite large and are a deep purple rose in colour.

In front of the Dwarf Cranberry try planting the Shasta Daisy Becky. I know that it states on the card that it is supposed to survive my zone 3 winter, but it never does. I treat it as an annual and one plant will grow into several sturdy stalks of long-lasting daisy flowers. This is definitely one of my top best plants!

Another choice of garden shrub to plant instead of the Dwarf Cranberry is planting the Dwarf Korean Lilac. This Lilac is a re-bloomer, however the second flush of flowers is not nearly abundant as the first.

Towards the outer edges I chose the Coreopsis Zagreb. I just love the way this perennial keeps blooming bright yellow flowers all summer long. Even in its first year, this plant will grow twice its original size.

The bright blue circle is the Catmint. Yes, this perennial can be slightly invasive, but it is really very easy to control and it grows very quickly to form a nice mass of blue to mauve blooms. And no, you won't have all of the neighbours cats resting in your Catmint patch...perhaps only your cat if you have one and allow it to go outside. Catmint is also another perennial that enjoys a good haircut mid summer. It rewards you with another flush of blooms. I show planting only one Catmint. Depending on the size of the plant you purchase and depending on the size of flowerbed, you might plant 2 instead of one. Just remember, Catmint really does grow quickly.

If you are not a lover of Catmint, plant the Bellflower instead. The Bellflower is another striking mid size perennial with deep purple flowers.

Stones and Boulders

Wonder what those brown circles are in the above image? When designing a flowerbed, I incorporate large stones/boulders. Stones and boulders act as another visual dimension. It also decreases the amount of plants required.

When using larger stones or boulders make sure to use plants that will enhance the look of the stone/boulder. For example, in the above image I have chosen the daylily Stella d' Oro. Not only does this daylily continuously bloom, the narrow long leaves fall gracefully over the stone.

Either beside, in front of or behind the stones/boulders, try planting Dianthus or Pinks as they are sometimes called. Another choice is the Geranium Rozanne. I can't say enough about this perennial. Yes, the stems do get floppy, but that is exactly what I like about this plant. The stems fall beautifully over my edging stones. As long as you deadhead the spent blooms, this perennial keeps on blooming until the first hard frost. The same goes for the lavender colour Scabiosa. With flowing stems, this perennial just keeps on blooming.

Another great groundcover or edging plant is the Creeping Jenny (not shown in the above image). Again, many call this perennial invasive and yet I have no issues controlling it. Creeping Jenny with its bright yellow flowers swirls softly throughout my edging stones. And besides the Creeping Jenny, the Ajuga also makes a great edging plant.

Normally perennials require about 3 years to mature or look their best...depending. So, while you are waiting, fill in the empty spots with annuals such as:

• Salvia Mystic Spires makes a great med size to taller annual. Plant alongside the Dwarf Cranberry Shrub.


• Salvia Black and Blue. Another wonderful tall growing annual. Plant alongside the tall Joe Pye Weed.


• Nelia Argyranthemum. A magnificent annual to add as a garden filler while waiting for the perennials to grow.


• African Daisy. I show the beautiful purple variety, but daisy comes in many colours.


• Felicia Daisy. This annual makes a great edging plant.


• Portulaca. This succulent annual comes in various colours and would drape over stones very nicely.

One final note: Remember that the number of plants to buy depends on the size of the flowerbed. Normally I try to plant in 3's. This doesn't always work for me...sometimes it's ok to plant in 2's. For instance, in the above image I suggest planting only 2 Dwarf Cranberry Shrubs. I feel that 3 would be just too much and I would rather contrast the Cranberry colour with bright white Becky Daisies.

If the size of the flowerbed is quite large, then planting each variety in 3's might make sense. Just make sure that there is a visual balance of height and colour. In other words, balance each side of the flowerbed for height and make sure to repeat the flower colours. When designing a flowerbed, you don't have to plant the same flower variety on both sides, but repeating the colour throughout the flowerbed pleases the eye. But most important...make sure it pleases you.

Whatever you do, don't worry...you can't make a mistake...plants can be added, removed and moved.

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